Start with the bad news. The Chinese in their wisdom have come up with a new rule for Tibet. Nationals have to be in a minimum party of 4 people, so the 3 Canadians, 1 Australian, 1 Dane and 1 American do not qualify. They will have to leave the truck in Northern China and rejoin us in Nepal. As you can imagine this has not gone down too well but their is nothing that can be done about it.
The good news is that following the bad news we visited two wine makers. At the first they scooped the red and white from vats buried in the ground but we didn,t like it much. We also tried the clear 60 proof alcohol called grapa which blows your head off. Having bought nothing we headed off for the second where he plied us with copious amounts of red, white and grapa with salty cheese and bread. Needless to say having got us drunk we bought loads. The drive to find a bush camp was more like a party which carried on when we arrived. A few sore heads in the morning.
We have now entered Azerbaijan a very male orientated country which is a bit odd. The border crossing was not too bad, just a couple of hours. We have arrived at our next stop a Karavanaserai. That is a huge courtyard surrounded by balconies with rooms, quite beautiful. we had a quick walk in to town to change some currency but it is very hot, well up in the 30's. By much hand waving I have arranged to have some washing done which is a bit of a relief in the heat. Julia is off to look around a palace I am off to put my feet up. Tomorow we drive off to bush camp at an active volcanoe and then off to Baku to try and get a ferry over the Caspien sea. There are no timetables so easier said than done.
Tuesday, 29 May 2012
Saturday, 26 May 2012
Back to Georgia
We finished our trip to Yerevan with a walking tour. Our guide told us about all the trouble with Russia and how parts of the country had been given away to Azerbaijan and Turkey, including mount ararat. The city is quite lovely with lots of places to eat and drink. There is no trouble as Police Officers can be found every few yards!!
We left Yerevan and camped by a lake en route back to Georgia. Heavy rain so we sat on the truck during the evening. The following day we were back through the Georgian border without incident and found another bush camp in a lovely spot. The weather here is quite wiered. Hot sun followed by gale force winds and frequent massive thunderstorms. We are however always surrounded by fantastic mountains. During the early hours we were joined by Jake, another crew member who will be returning back on the truck from India.
The following day we carried on into even more spectacular country to a remote monestery where our guide had been married. Our resident Dane managed to catch a tortoise, lizard and large snake within 30 minutes. We set up in glorious sunshine before the wind picked up to gale force and the rain came. The following morning found the truck side awning ripped from the side needing urgent attention, however, the toilet tent erected by myself still standing. After urgent repairs we set off further towards Azerbaijan and our first home stay. We have arrived inTevkavi and the three couples are in one house with the singlies in another. The house and rooms are fantastic with double beds and parquet floors, even a piano in the lounge. Gill has however already managed to flood the bathroom. Just off fgor a wade in thebathroom
We left Yerevan and camped by a lake en route back to Georgia. Heavy rain so we sat on the truck during the evening. The following day we were back through the Georgian border without incident and found another bush camp in a lovely spot. The weather here is quite wiered. Hot sun followed by gale force winds and frequent massive thunderstorms. We are however always surrounded by fantastic mountains. During the early hours we were joined by Jake, another crew member who will be returning back on the truck from India.
The following day we carried on into even more spectacular country to a remote monestery where our guide had been married. Our resident Dane managed to catch a tortoise, lizard and large snake within 30 minutes. We set up in glorious sunshine before the wind picked up to gale force and the rain came. The following morning found the truck side awning ripped from the side needing urgent attention, however, the toilet tent erected by myself still standing. After urgent repairs we set off further towards Azerbaijan and our first home stay. We have arrived inTevkavi and the three couples are in one house with the singlies in another. The house and rooms are fantastic with double beds and parquet floors, even a piano in the lounge. Gill has however already managed to flood the bathroom. Just off fgor a wade in thebathroom
Tuesday, 22 May 2012
Armenia
We had a last look around the Tibilisi flea market before heading off towards Armenia. We are spending one night bush camping at an ancient abandoned village however, we have to drive miles up what you could only call a bridalway. Just a series of steep muddy rocky lanes. This is definitely not one on the tourist trail. We camp and go for a walk to find the ruins which are sited on a dramatic gorge edge. The weather is not too good and we are met by a herdsman and his cattle trying to get past our truck and tents, well nobody got killed.
Another terrific thunderstorm overnight and then the problem of turning the truck. One and a half hours, two demolished walls, pushing and shoving and there you have it, pointing the other way. Having re negotiated the track we set off for the border.
The Armenian guards still wear those very high fronted caps, a blast from the past. We wait in the sun for our visas until they give in and we get through.
We are now looking for another bush camp when some villagers take our guide and Rogan off in a car. When they return we have found a camp in a glade with knee high grass and the clouds gather again. During the evening we are joined by Armenians with brandy so some of our drinking team entertain them.
More rain then sun in the morning finds us heading in to Yerevan the capital of Armenia. We are staying in a hostel in the middle of the city which turns out to be very nice and a welcome hot shower with laundry down the road. A lovely city and Julia and I sat outside eating a very good lunch. Tomorow a walking tour and then back to Georgia heading for Azerbaijan
Another terrific thunderstorm overnight and then the problem of turning the truck. One and a half hours, two demolished walls, pushing and shoving and there you have it, pointing the other way. Having re negotiated the track we set off for the border.
The Armenian guards still wear those very high fronted caps, a blast from the past. We wait in the sun for our visas until they give in and we get through.
We are now looking for another bush camp when some villagers take our guide and Rogan off in a car. When they return we have found a camp in a glade with knee high grass and the clouds gather again. During the evening we are joined by Armenians with brandy so some of our drinking team entertain them.
More rain then sun in the morning finds us heading in to Yerevan the capital of Armenia. We are staying in a hostel in the middle of the city which turns out to be very nice and a welcome hot shower with laundry down the road. A lovely city and Julia and I sat outside eating a very good lunch. Tomorow a walking tour and then back to Georgia heading for Azerbaijan
Friday, 18 May 2012
Gori to Tibilisi
Having had a very unusual breakfast of pancakes and cakes we set off for Gori the birthplace of Uncle Joe Stalin. We arriveed and had a guided tour by a painted lady who spoke perfect English as though reading a script. There was no possibility of asking a question we did as we were told. That said, it was very interesting. We met up with Betsy who had briefly left us to attend a wedding in Canada! We had a nice evening bush camp near a church on a hill.
The following day we drove to another bush camp at Kazbegi next to a river. The drive was over the Caucases mountains just like the Alps complete with snow. The roads arte nearly non existent, just a series of holes. Having arrived we were approached by the police and warned of Woves!! Having dug a cosy toilet we settled in for the night and drank from our on board bar ( it,s not all hell!!).
In the morning we hiked up a huge mountain to a church called Gorgeti Trinity, quite spectacular but very hot and Julia and I had to make steps in a snow field at one point.
We have now arrived in the capital of Georgia, Tibilisi. A mad dash across town in taxis to the Kazakstan Embassy for visas. The ride was hair raising to say the least!
Out for a group dinner tonight, Julia is at a Turkish bath. Off to Armenia in two days for more bush camping.
The following day we drove to another bush camp at Kazbegi next to a river. The drive was over the Caucases mountains just like the Alps complete with snow. The roads arte nearly non existent, just a series of holes. Having arrived we were approached by the police and warned of Woves!! Having dug a cosy toilet we settled in for the night and drank from our on board bar ( it,s not all hell!!).
In the morning we hiked up a huge mountain to a church called Gorgeti Trinity, quite spectacular but very hot and Julia and I had to make steps in a snow field at one point.
We have now arrived in the capital of Georgia, Tibilisi. A mad dash across town in taxis to the Kazakstan Embassy for visas. The ride was hair raising to say the least!
Out for a group dinner tonight, Julia is at a Turkish bath. Off to Armenia in two days for more bush camping.
Monday, 14 May 2012
Kutaisi or something like that
Bush camped last night by a river which was nice apart from the biggest thunderstorm I have ever seen which made camping interesting. We shared the area with wandering pigs, cattle and strange people including a Czech cyclist who has been on the road for 10 months and is heading for China.
Set off for Kutaisi and as we entered the town our guide ZIZI decided he would give directions to Rogan in this chaotic place by whispering behind him and pointing a vague finger. This resulted in us doing several tours of back streets where the cables dragged over our roof. We found the 'hotel' down a back street that would do justice to war torn Afghanistan, but inside is quite nice. Very poor place and still obviously post Soviet. The Russians still occupy some of the country.
Bush camping tomorrtow en route to Tiblisi.
Set off for Kutaisi and as we entered the town our guide ZIZI decided he would give directions to Rogan in this chaotic place by whispering behind him and pointing a vague finger. This resulted in us doing several tours of back streets where the cables dragged over our roof. We found the 'hotel' down a back street that would do justice to war torn Afghanistan, but inside is quite nice. Very poor place and still obviously post Soviet. The Russians still occupy some of the country.
Bush camping tomorrtow en route to Tiblisi.
Saturday, 12 May 2012
Continued
Sorry got cut ioff mid flow.
Having got the tent out a convoy of lorries arrived to dump stone. Lots of arm waving and pointing and they drove off having tried to level the area. Laura went for a walk and ended up staring at a Bear! I was cooking and we had a great chicken curry.
Next day off to the border with Georgia.Off the truck on the truck but no real problems. On the Georgian side we meet our guide ZaZa, a nice quiet guy. Batumi. Being regenerated around the poor, very post Soviet. As we tried to unload our bags a boy beggar kept getting in our way but we got into our hotel which is fine, not sure where it fweatures in the star rating. For lunch Julia and I sat by the waterside and enjoyed Georgian food and wine. The group went out in the evening to a restaurant in a boat on land! There was live music and lots of wine. We all enjoyed ourselves, some more than others. A highluight was some of the locals dancing, they were really very good so our Scottish girls jumped up (Rowan and Di) and it turned into a competition. I think we won.
Off bush camping again today. Sorry for the errors in the text but my small machine is a mystery to me. Bye for now.
Having got the tent out a convoy of lorries arrived to dump stone. Lots of arm waving and pointing and they drove off having tried to level the area. Laura went for a walk and ended up staring at a Bear! I was cooking and we had a great chicken curry.
Next day off to the border with Georgia.Off the truck on the truck but no real problems. On the Georgian side we meet our guide ZaZa, a nice quiet guy. Batumi. Being regenerated around the poor, very post Soviet. As we tried to unload our bags a boy beggar kept getting in our way but we got into our hotel which is fine, not sure where it fweatures in the star rating. For lunch Julia and I sat by the waterside and enjoyed Georgian food and wine. The group went out in the evening to a restaurant in a boat on land! There was live music and lots of wine. We all enjoyed ourselves, some more than others. A highluight was some of the locals dancing, they were really very good so our Scottish girls jumped up (Rowan and Di) and it turned into a competition. I think we won.
Off bush camping again today. Sorry for the errors in the text but my small machine is a mystery to me. Bye for now.
That was Turkey this is Georgia
Before we left Gorome we decided to walk in to town. After a few minutes the heavens opened and it poured down drenching us. A car stopped and three Turkish men told us to get in, so this was either a kidnap or friendlyness!! So, we got in and they drove us in to town. Turkish people are just genuinly nice. Having got in to town we went to a cafe where we met up with some of the others and drank Turkish tea while we dried out.
The next morning we set off East for a bush camp and on the way stopped for lunch in an out of the way town called Zara. As we stopped we were surrounded by children and locals who clearly thought we were hilarious. We moved on and found somewhere to stop next to a reservir surrounded by mountains, a great site. Clearly no toilets here so people wandering off with small shovels.
Up early and off East again stopping for lunch in Tirebulu whose population also seemed never to have seen a weterner before. A cafe owner gave us all free tea. We drove on to our campsite near Trabzon. More a restaurant than a camp site but it was ok. While bbqing ourchicken in the dark a man came over and just gave us a large bottle of Georgian wine.
We left and drove to the monastery of Sumela, a three mile walk uphill to the monastery stuck to the side of a cliff, quite fantastic but very hot.
Popped into town where a grocer tried to charge me four pounds each for some melons, I declined and bought a bottle of wine.
Our next bush camp was very interesting as the mountains are so steep we struggled to find somewhere to stop. Eventually we backed up a track to a small area of dumped stonhaving cl
The next morning we set off East for a bush camp and on the way stopped for lunch in an out of the way town called Zara. As we stopped we were surrounded by children and locals who clearly thought we were hilarious. We moved on and found somewhere to stop next to a reservir surrounded by mountains, a great site. Clearly no toilets here so people wandering off with small shovels.
Up early and off East again stopping for lunch in Tirebulu whose population also seemed never to have seen a weterner before. A cafe owner gave us all free tea. We drove on to our campsite near Trabzon. More a restaurant than a camp site but it was ok. While bbqing ourchicken in the dark a man came over and just gave us a large bottle of Georgian wine.
We left and drove to the monastery of Sumela, a three mile walk uphill to the monastery stuck to the side of a cliff, quite fantastic but very hot.
Popped into town where a grocer tried to charge me four pounds each for some melons, I declined and bought a bottle of wine.
Our next bush camp was very interesting as the mountains are so steep we struggled to find somewhere to stop. Eventually we backed up a track to a small area of dumped stonhaving cl
Sunday, 6 May 2012
Gorome - Turkey
We had an early start from Istanbul, breakfast at 0600hrs and on the road by 0630. Turkey has suprised me so far as I expected a poor country like Romania and Bulgaria. But far from it, this is a huge and prosperous country with magnificent buildings and construction on a massive scale. The countryside is beautiful and endless.
We had a long day on the truck, a 12 hour drive!! we were all a bit tired at the end of it. We have arrived in Gorome, a place I had never heard of. Our campsite has spectacular views over an alien landscape.
Our first full day was an organised tour (tourists!!). We had a guide and a small coach and our first stop was one of the cave complexes that used to hold 5000 people. The underground system is fantastic with living areas and work areas linked by small tunnels which I could only just squeeze through. Some of our larger members had an even tighter squeeze. Health and safety does not exist. We then moved on to a number of photo opportunities at the amazing volcanic rock structures before lunch at an unusual pizza stop! My drink was a type of yoghurt which I think I may give a wide berth to in future. More picture stops, a visit to a pottery and then out to dinner wwhere the meal was in a clay pt that you had to break the top off to eat. It was the best meal we have had in Turkey.
Got up at 0600 the next morning to see over 100 hot air balloons rise out of the valley, quite a spectacle. Just off for a walk, hope you are all well and enjoying the bank holiday.
We had a long day on the truck, a 12 hour drive!! we were all a bit tired at the end of it. We have arrived in Gorome, a place I had never heard of. Our campsite has spectacular views over an alien landscape.
Our first full day was an organised tour (tourists!!). We had a guide and a small coach and our first stop was one of the cave complexes that used to hold 5000 people. The underground system is fantastic with living areas and work areas linked by small tunnels which I could only just squeeze through. Some of our larger members had an even tighter squeeze. Health and safety does not exist. We then moved on to a number of photo opportunities at the amazing volcanic rock structures before lunch at an unusual pizza stop! My drink was a type of yoghurt which I think I may give a wide berth to in future. More picture stops, a visit to a pottery and then out to dinner wwhere the meal was in a clay pt that you had to break the top off to eat. It was the best meal we have had in Turkey.
Got up at 0600 the next morning to see over 100 hot air balloons rise out of the valley, quite a spectacle. Just off for a walk, hope you are all well and enjoying the bank holiday.
Thursday, 3 May 2012
Istanbul Part 2
Followiong our visit to the Han restaurant we all trooped of to smoke hubbly bubbly pipes on cushioned couches!! I forgot to mention our trip to the Uzbekistan Embassy in the morning. All went far too well in the begining. As we stood outside our Australian, Jodie, realised that she had her room mate Betsies Canadian passport by mistake. She had to dash back in a taxi to get hers but all was well in the end. Today Julia, Betsie, Jeff and I went off the the Topkapi. A huge complex with the most interesting being the Harem. Following a very nice lunch, Julia and I went to the Blue Mosque where she had to cover up to get in. A fantastic huge domed structure. My sore feet appreciated having to walk around bare footed on the cartpet.
The afternoon was a boat trip on the Bosphorus. Having negotiated a price we were bundled into a mini bus and taken to a boat that clearly should have been condemned some years ago. We then sailed off into a freezing wind and high swell for an hour and a half. Great views but very cold. When we got back we stumbled into the filming of the new James Bond film, how crazy is that? Tomorow up and gone by 6.15 en-route to Goreme about a 12 hour drive.
The afternoon was a boat trip on the Bosphorus. Having negotiated a price we were bundled into a mini bus and taken to a boat that clearly should have been condemned some years ago. We then sailed off into a freezing wind and high swell for an hour and a half. Great views but very cold. When we got back we stumbled into the filming of the new James Bond film, how crazy is that? Tomorow up and gone by 6.15 en-route to Goreme about a 12 hour drive.
Istanbul
We drove in to Istanbul which is huge and had arranged to meet someone from the hotel near to the train station. As usual we were drawing a lot of attention and as we pulled up there was a terrific bang as a three car accident happened next to us. The hotel person never arrived so we put on our rucksacks and marched off in a long line to our small hotel right in the middle of the city. The place is as you would expect, quite mad. There are endless places to eat and you are enticed in at every one you pass. We had arrived quite early in the afternoon so Julia and I went for a quick look to see where we were and found we were around the corner from the Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque. We popped into some mausoleums and found just how fantastic these buildings are going to be. That evening we wanted to eat and gave in to one of the many offers of great food. A nice evening.
Day two we went off walking and went to the spice market, a huge under cover market of fantastic sights, sounds and smells. Then to the Bosphorus to eat fish rolls cooked on bobbing boats and then passed ashore. We visited the Cistern, which is an ancient underground water source built on massive pillars, very impressive. Having decided to buy a bum bag we headed for the 'Grand Bazaar'. Well, you have never seen anything like it. An under cover market on a scale beyond comprehension. Thousands of stalls and shops with people enticing you to buy their goods. The only thing they do not appear to sell is the type of bag Julia wants!! We met some of the others for dinner in the Ham restaurant, which had cushions on the floor. Bit expensive for what you got so probably wont go back there.
Day two we went off walking and went to the spice market, a huge under cover market of fantastic sights, sounds and smells. Then to the Bosphorus to eat fish rolls cooked on bobbing boats and then passed ashore. We visited the Cistern, which is an ancient underground water source built on massive pillars, very impressive. Having decided to buy a bum bag we headed for the 'Grand Bazaar'. Well, you have never seen anything like it. An under cover market on a scale beyond comprehension. Thousands of stalls and shops with people enticing you to buy their goods. The only thing they do not appear to sell is the type of bag Julia wants!! We met some of the others for dinner in the Ham restaurant, which had cushions on the floor. Bit expensive for what you got so probably wont go back there.
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