Sumatra

After a one hour flight we arrived in Medan, Indonesia, and promptly ran to the airport KFC for wholesome food (I know we are sad but 5 odd months does that to you). We boarded our luxury (Indonesian style) coach and drove the 6 hours to the Samosir ferry to take us to the inland island of Tuk Tuk, formed in a massive volcanic explosion that sent Earth into a mini ice age 70,000 years ago. We spent the next few days exploring the island and meeting the lovely but very poor people before going back on the ferry to meet up with our coach again. We set off North to Berastagi and arrived at a very large and quite grand hotel with a panoramic view of the larger of two active volcanos. Steam billowing from the top. On our second day Julia climbed the smaller of the volcanos up to the noxious gas. The following day we visited some of the original stilted houses still being used and went in to one that housed 8 families around 4 fires on one open level!
The following day we headed off to our next stop, Bukit Lawang in the jungle. We stayed in an Eco lodge with no hot water and basic facilities. We trecked into the jungle with a good guide and came across some Orang Utans. A mother and baby came down and took bananas from us while hanging down from a tree. Mother was very big!  We finished the day coming down a fast flowing river on lorry innertubes. After a lazy day we headed back to Medan where we catch a flight back to Malaysia in the morning.

Beach Bums

We are having a week of 'rest and recuperation' on the Island of Koh Phangan. Everyone is doing their own thing and have booked into various parts of the island. Julia and I and 5 others have all opted for Cyana Beach which is just up the coast from the harbour. We have a lovely bungallow looking out to sea, the food is great and well priced and they have a pool! Having settled in to this small part of heaven we took ourselves off in to town and all hired scooters (including Julia). Some had never ridden before so a fair bit of wobbling going on. No need for a driving license or insurance  etc, just get on and ride off. As long as you avoid the pot holes and loose sand you will be fine!! Having said that by day 2, two of our ladies had managed to fall off at low speed creating various cuts and bruises but nothing fatal.
The other suprise on this small laid back island is that it has a small Tescos, time to stock up on tea bags.
The weather was perfect every day so, having purchased a snorkel we spent the week going from one fantastic beach to the next followed by great Thai currys.
The week came to an end and it was like back to school when we all met at the harbour for the fast ferry. The next few days saw long hours in mini buses as we drove out of Thailand, in to Malaysia and hopping onto an aeroplane to take us to Sumatra.

Kanchanaburi - Bridge on the river Kwai

We left the madness of Bangkok behind us and hurtled out of the city in two mini buses for the drive to Kanchanaburi, a small town by the river Kwai. We stayed in a very nice little complex called Apple & Loi which looked out onto the river. On the first day Julia and I walked in to town but had trouble walking past a sign that said 'cottage pie'. We were drawn in and had to sit and eat lovely cottage pie and drink cold beer. We then carried on and went to the Commonwealth war grave cemetery. As usual an immaculate place beautifully kept. The cemetary contains over 7000 graves of the men who died at or near this point and suprisingly a large contingent of Dutch. During the evening we continued with our eat local theme and had pizzas!
On oue second day we hired bicycles and cycled out to the bridge made famous by the film. A sombre place a little spoiled by the need to take money from tourists with gaudy shops etc.
During our stay we visited three museums, the best being the one by the cemetary which had many artefacts and detailed information on what happened to the men who wre forced to build the railway and bridge.
We return to Bangkok to catch the overnight bus South to get the ferry to Ko Phangan.

Bangkok (Oh my God)

Having survived the crazy border crossing in to Thailand we got in ti two mini buses and apparently took part in a race to Bangkok, crazy driver...Massive traffic congestion and pouring rain when we arrived but we are in the centre of the city. This is backpacker central with many thousands of visitors. Although interesting not my kind of city, seems to have lost its charm. We are in the Ko San area so lots of bars etc, thank God for cheap beer.
We decided to 'do' Bangkok so all went in taxs to the infamous Pat Pong area. If you are feint hearted stop reading NOW.
OK, so the area is famous for its shows so we were enticed in and we are an odd group of ordinary men and women. On stage were agroup of women who were performing jaw dropping acts that you would not think humanly possible. This was not in any way erotic but more naked burlesque. Anyone requiring more detail see me later.
Anyway, three days was enough to look around and see the sights.
Next instalment will be Bridge over the river Kwai.

Siem Reap

We took a long boat journey from Batambang to Siem Reap the home of Angkor Wat. Great trip but a bit numb on the old boney bum ( 7 hours).
We are staying at the 'gay friendly' Golden banana!! The place is very nice and the staff all friendly, well, to me anyway. We have a balcony overlooking the pool and the cocktails with names too rude to mention are great.
We went in tuk tuks out to the amazing area of Angkor Wat, these are temples on a massive scale and very beautiful. The heat in the jungle is suffocating and you need lots of water.  One of the temples has trees growing out of it and was used as a set during tomb raider (the film).
The town is very touristy and we drank in the aptly named  beer street. As it was our crew member Rogans birthday we all went out for a pizza, I should have realised that Happy Herbs Pizza was exactly that with an extra ingredient.  Anyway we all survived and had a great evening.  Thailand next stop.

From cocktails to killing fields

We have arrived in Cambodia a place with a terrible recent history, year 0 and Pol Pot. Everything here is priced in US Dollars and that is preferred to their own currency. We are staying in a very nice 11 month old hotel in the centre on Phnom Phen. We arrived on the outskirts of the city in the pouring rain and had to get our things in to Tuk Tuks and race off.
The hotel No 9 has bars on three floors and 'happy hour' from 4pm to 9pm!!  The museum and Royal Palace are fantastic albeit the heat and humidity slow you down as you look around. Plenty of stops at big air fans. The heavens opened as we neared the end of our trip to the palace and we had to dive in to the nearest Tuk Tuk which would not start and was pushed up the road by other drivers.
Our second day started with a visit to S21, the main building used by Pol Pot to torture people into confessing they were spies before killing them and all their families. S21 is kept exactly as it was and is a terrible place that must be seen. The regime obviously learnt a lot from the Nazis.
From S21 we went out of town by Tuk Tuk to the 'Killing Fields' (Choeng Ek). This is exactly what it was. People were taken here and killed in the most disgusting ways, a written description cannot conjure up the feel of the place or the piles of human skulls.great, full of smiles . We are now moving on again to Batambang.

Saigon

We set off for Saigon on a bed bus. A coach full of beds! A bit wiered and tooik some getting used to. Fortunately we had 10 hours to get the hang of it. Our hotel is in the middle of the city that everyone still calls Saigon. It is completely mad. There are hundreds of thousands of scooters coming at you from all directions without a break. The only way to cross the road is to just walk out in the road and the scooters just pass around you. This is quite hairy on a six lane carriageway.
While in Saigon we visited the Reunification Palace and the War Remnants Museum. Aparently the Americans were very evil and the Vietcong were peace loving farmers. Very interesting, quite harrowing and very biased.
We went 10 pin bowling in the evening as Pip was 30. The madness continues in the evening as we drink beer on the streets in very small chairs with scooters zooming around us and hawkers trying to sell anything.
On our last day we went to visit the Cu Chi tunnels dug by the Vietcong during the war. There are a vast amount of tunnels over 100km on 3 levels. They have enlarged a small section so that us fat westerners can go down. Still very hot and cramped. They were very proud to show off the man traps full of sharpened bamboo for killing and maiming the American troops. Julia and I also visited a water puppet show which sounds a bit naf but actually was brilliant.

Vietnam - Hoi An

We left Hue and headed off to Hoi An. En route we stopped at the China Beach to stretch our legs on the roasting sand of a superb beach and threw Gareth in the sea. Back on the coach and off again to Hoi An. Our hotel has a pool and the sea is a bike ride away. This unfortunately is where you get clothes made so it is full of dress shops. Julia has two lovely oriental dresses made in silk.. We explore the beach and town by bicycle and due to the heat have to stop for a liquid lunch. Aparently happy hour is all day!!
Our Australian Jody has returned from a daughters wedding so the girls went for a night out anf the boys went to the Indian for a curry. We could be at home.
From Hoi An we set off on a very long trip to Nha Trang. Worth the trip as this is a fantastic beach and we have a large balcony looking out to sea.
I should mention that we have lost our second member as Kev left us in Hoi An. I shan't go in to the reasons here.
Julia has now got a new swimsuit and I have new trunks. I don't think the old speedos suited me. Lots of walking on the beach and swimming in the sea.
We went to the Why Not bar in the evening and enjoyed working our way down the cocktail list.

Vietnam

We have left our trusty truck Calypso in Laos as it cannot enter Vietnam. Instead we boarded an air conditioned luxuey coach and headed to the border. No real problems so we entered Vietnam and headed for our first stop Hue. Anyone as old as me will probably remember the battle for Hue during the tet offensive. 10,000 died there. The city was very lively and on the first night we had a nice meal followed by a number of cocktails, thank god for happy hour in Asia. The next day we looked around the Imperial Palace which was very interesting but in quite blistering heat. We followed this bit of history by visiting the KFC! Another bout of cocktails in the evening. Our last full day in Hue was a boat trip up the Perfumed river. The boat was interesting and had plastic garden chairs and a vast array of goods for sale. You cannot walk two paces in this part of the world without someone trying to sell you something. We pulled in near the Tu Doc tomb where we boarded the back of motorcycles for a hair raising trip to the tomb. Quite a journey.
We visited a Budhist Pergola on the trip back to Hue.

LuangPrabang

Laos was a great Country to visit and we had some very memorable days:
Elephants: Three of us took a ride out in to the jungle where we boarded a small boat to take us up river against the floodwater. I couldn't help thinking 'what happens if the engine fails'. We arrived at a jungle elephant sanctuary where Julia and I climbed in to a seat on the back of our elephant and the mahout sat behind his head. We set off in to the jungle for a memorable ride, even more so when he got off and I climbed down to replace him. The mahout just called out to the elephant as we walked off.  We got back and fed her bananas, they are great animals. We then boarded our boar again and went down river to a waterfall for a swim. A great day.

Cooking: The following day we went on a Laos cookery course. This involved going to the market with the chef in Tuk Tuks, to be shown all the different vegetables and herbs and spices. We also went in to the butchery section which I will not describe here in detail. Needless to say I thought China was interesting but there were some surprises in this market!! We then went out to a beautiful location for the course. The chef was great and we made some lovely food which we cooked and ate with cold beer.

Jungle Trek:
Our last two days in Laos were spent in the jungle. We went down river for some miles before finding the 'huts' we were staying in. Some more interesting than others. Lots of interesting insect life trying to share our space but wonderful as you could not get further away from normal life.

It has finaly stopped raining and we have left our truck Calypso in Laos. We reluctantly boarded a luxury air conditioned coach and drove in to Vietnam. We have arrived in Hue which for those of you who followed the war this is an interesting place. That's all for now must lay down in front of a fan.

Laos

Laos is a Communist country that has lost its way. The country is very poor and is like stepping back in time. The houses are built on stilts and the walls made of ratan. The place may be dirt poor but the people are lovely, very polite and full of smiles
The weather has been awful so far and has rained almost non stop for about six days.Our first stop was Luang Nam, a one horse town near the border in a lovely little guest house tucked away from the street. After a day of not doing much but eat and talk we decided to go on an expedition. 12 of us got into tuk tuks and set off into the jungle where we met some guides and walked through a small village inbto the jungle. The rain had now turned everything into mud so it was only a few minutes before people started to slide down and fall about. It was the funniest thing I have seen in years. Nick gave up and was taken back whikle the rest of us struggkled on deeper into the jungle with our guides cutting the way. After a few hours and much laughter we arrived at the top of a waterfall in flood and found we had to wade through it up to our waists. When we eventually all got over we carried in to a remote hut where our guides laid out banana leaves and fantastic food of sticky rice, meat, vegetables and spicy dips. We emptied out our boots, rung out our clothes and had lunch. We then carried on until we  met our transport and were taken to another river in flood where we were going to kayak. The approach was in knee deep soft mud which made the launch interesting!! It was great fun for another couple of hours even though we nearly sank! It was a great day but my boots will never be the same again.

China

Just a little proof that we are still alive having managed to escape from China!!  The Chinese in their wisdom try and block facebook and google blogs etc. It is possible to get around it if you have the right software. We are now on Laos and the heavens have opened but we are all pleased to be here. China was very interesting and huge, we have travelled 8500km from side to side and visited some of the worlds great sights.
Great Wall - is indeed great and is a wall! we climbed up the wall at its extreme left hand end so no tourists, just us.

Pandas - I was surprised by this, they are fantastic creatures who spend their whole day sitting about eating bamboo. Not too touristy.

Terracotta Warriors - The warriors are great. The day was very hot but seeing the massed warriors in their pits was worth the effort. You can watch as the warriors are being pieced back together again and still over 90% left to dig up. 

Buddhas - We have seen more than you can shake a stick at. The tallest in the world, the biggest reclining, the most in one place......They are fantastic and I'm sure you will eventually like the pictures!

Labrang Monastery - We have been in many walled towns and interesting places but this topped them all. We could not get in to Tibet as the Chinese had closed the border so we went here. This used to be in Tibet and is home to 3000 monks. The town is only small so is full of monks and pilgrims. We had a monk guide and he showed us around including a room containing 1000 chanting monks, something you cannot forget or imagine.  The monastery is 3km around and the whole of the walls are prayer wheels that you turn as you pass.

Earthquake - Yes, that was interesting. We were camped in the dessert when Julia woke me to ask why I was shaking. I wasn't but the ground certainly was. There was a massive earthquake about 100km away. Quite exciting and a bit weired.

We have stayed in so many places that they start to merge after a while.  We were objects of interest in places that never see Europeans so our truck and us are constantly surrounded by interested faces.

The worst thing about the place was the toilets. Without going in to graphic detail they are on the whole disgusting beyond belief.  The plumbing even in good places does not take paper!!!!! Anyway, enough about that.  It was worth the effort to see all the places but I do not think many of us would rush back.  We have got into Laos and it's lovely.

Kazak SWAT team

En route to our border crossing we stopped for fuel at what passes for a petrol station here. As I walked across the forecourt I could hear an alarm sounding and then saw a white Lada car screech onto the station just missing me as it swerved to a halt. AS hotch potch of men jumped out wearing steel helmets, flack jackets and carrying machine guns. It was obviously a false alarm as the shop guard also carried a pump action shotgun!!
Having regained our composure, we camped nearby and were visited by locals amazed by these strange people.
We pass into Kyrkyzstan next and then into China. That is going to be even stranger if that is possible. We are having a great time on the Great Silk Route.

Kazakhstan

The border from Uzbekistan to Kazakhstan was the usual long haul from these previous Soviet states. A new twist at this one was a whole body scanner! Having got through to the Kazak side we waited for hours for the truck to pass through. We were in an area like the third world, a shanty town in blistering heat that made a couple of our ladies wobble a bit. We met our Russian speaking guide Vladimeer. Unfortunately, his English is not so hot. For the next two nights we camp in Vladimeers garden/zoo. His gogs, neighbours dogs, chickens, horses etc all of whome compete to be the loudest at 5am.
We go for atrek into the national park in this country that is as large as western Europe. Our trek takes down deep into a gorge to a river where we cool down in the cold glacial water. The trek up is very demanding and we are glad to see the truck and have lunch. One of our group came running to say a man had collapsed half way down the gorge so a couple of us ran down to his aid and found a swedish man collapsed with heat exhaustion. Having revived him a ranger arrivedand carted him off on his horse. We struggled back up to the top. We had one more bush camp night before heading off towards the border with Kyrgyzstan.

Plov

If I had to think of one word to sum up the food in Uzbekistan it would be Plov. Plov is greasy rice with what appears to be bits of lamb in it  and so bland you need lots of beer to wash it down. My heart sinks when the waiter tells you what they have and it always starts with"we have plov". On one of our mamoth drives through the desert to get to Samarkand we stopped for lunch at a roadside restaurant that had a function on and actualy looked quite nice. We asked for Tandoori and expected something similar to the UK. What we got was plates of cold fatty bits of lamb. The toilet was the foulest hovel known to man that I could not start to describe.
We arrived in Samarkand at a very nice hotel with marble floors and good rooms. The temperature stays in the 40's so we hunt shade most of the time and drink loads of water. Samarkand is quite spectacular with its ancient palaces and we leave tomorow for Tashkent.
Our Guide is the Uzbek Dell boy who appears to be in to everything. He changes our money and as the rate is 2500 to the dollar, changing 200 dollars involves carrying a shopping bag full of 1000 cum notes.
Hoping to watch England play France in the football tonight. You never know we might win.

Bad news

We are in Khiva. A great 2500 year old walled city in Uzbekistan. Our hotel is an old madrasa set around a courtyard and is lovely. The heat is extreme well up in the 40,s. QWe have heard today that China have closed the border into Tibet. We are going to have to miss Tibet, Nepal and India. Instead we will go through China to the great wall, terracota army and pandas etc until we hit Laos. We will now also go to Borneo. Will update as we get more information.
We head further into Uzbekistan heading towards Samarkand and Tashkent.

Asgabat continued

As I was saying, we had to close our balcony doors and in some cases ladies just barged in and took washing off the balconies! There are police everywhere, a very odd place.  In the morning we headed North through more desert for the border and escape. Getting out was also not easy and yet again we had to wait and then wait. We had our lunch in no-mans land before getting into Uzbekistan. Oh yes, in Turkmenistan there is no WiFi, no mobile connection and the rooms are bugged.

Ice cold in Ashgabat

How do you get in to Turkmenistan? I can tell you, with great difficulty. You get a mini bus driver to take you to the Embassy but he insists on going to where it used to be so iot takes an hour and a half to find down a back alley in the heat. You wait  outside for some hours while something happens inside and then you leave while your crew try and pay and get the visas. You wait all day while you try and get passage on the mystery freighter that may or may not sail.  About 9pm you walk to the port and wait on the roadway by the customs post and imagine that a boat has docked. When you realise that the boat is not here you get in a sleeping bag and wait.  About 4am a boat arrives and you play games with customs, stand here, stand there etc. When you get on the boat expecting hell you find it is actually OK and set sail. We arrived off the coast of Turkmenistan at about 7pm where we dropped anchor and got in to port at 2pm the next day!!
Turkmenistan is a desert and a police state so no suprise with customs.  Stand in 40 degree heat until a door opens and you are beckoned in by a soldier. Go to a window and get given your passport, take to another window get pieces of paper, go to first window again get stuff done, go to room and get swabbed for something.  Go through a scanner and empty all your belongings for examination and then wait hours for the truck. I can,t explain the toilets you would not believe me.  Having escaped the port with our minder we drive into the dese wh we are stopped by  the Police and told we missed a piece of paper which is brought to us.
The next day we have to register our existence which takes another 2 hours. We drive through the desert to Ashgabat. This is either 1984 or North Korea. There is an 11pm curfew and we are woken at 6.20 am as the president is driving past and

Good news and bad news

Start with the bad news.  The Chinese in their wisdom have come up with a new rule for Tibet. Nationals have to be in a minimum party of 4 people, so the 3 Canadians, 1 Australian, 1 Dane and 1 American do not qualify. They will have to leave the truck in Northern China and rejoin us in Nepal. As you can imagine this has not gone down too well but their is nothing that can be done about it.
The good news is that following the bad news we visited two wine makers. At the first they scooped the red and white from vats buried in the ground but we didn,t like it much. We also tried the clear 60 proof alcohol called grapa which blows your head off.  Having bought nothing we headed off for the second where he plied us with copious amounts of red, white and grapa with salty cheese and bread. Needless to say having got us drunk we bought loads. The drive to find a bush camp was more like a party which carried on when we arrived. A few sore heads in the morning.
We have now entered Azerbaijan a very male orientated country which is a bit odd. The border crossing was not too bad, just a couple of hours. We have arrived at our next stop a Karavanaserai. That is a huge courtyard surrounded by balconies with rooms, quite beautiful. we had a quick walk in to town to change some currency but it is very hot, well up in the 30's. By much hand waving I have arranged to have some washing done which is a bit of a relief in the heat. Julia is off to look around a palace I am off to put my feet up. Tomorow we drive off to bush camp at an active volcanoe and then off to Baku to try and get a ferry over the Caspien sea. There are no timetables so easier said than done.

Back to Georgia

We finished our trip to Yerevan with a walking tour. Our guide told us about all the trouble with Russia and how parts of the country had been given away to Azerbaijan and Turkey, including mount ararat. The city is quite lovely with lots of places to eat and drink. There is no trouble as Police Officers can be found every few yards!!
We left Yerevan and camped by a lake en route back to Georgia. Heavy rain so we sat on the truck during the evening. The following day we were back through the Georgian border without incident and found another bush camp in a lovely spot. The weather here is quite wiered. Hot sun followed by gale force winds and frequent massive thunderstorms. We are however always surrounded by fantastic mountains. During the early hours we were joined by Jake, another crew member who will be returning back on the truck from India.
The following day we carried on into  even more spectacular country to a remote monestery where our guide had been married. Our resident Dane managed to catch a tortoise, lizard and large snake within 30 minutes. We set up in glorious sunshine before the wind picked up to gale force and the rain came.  The following morning found the truck side awning ripped from the side needing urgent attention, however, the toilet tent erected by myself still standing.  After urgent repairs we set off further towards Azerbaijan and our first home stay.  We have arrived inTevkavi and the three couples are in one house with the singlies in another. The house and rooms are fantastic with double beds and parquet floors, even a piano in the lounge. Gill has however already managed to flood the bathroom. Just off fgor a wade in thebathroom

Armenia

We had a last look around the Tibilisi flea market before heading off towards Armenia. We are spending one night bush camping at an ancient abandoned village however, we have to drive miles up what you could only call a bridalway. Just a series of steep muddy rocky lanes.  This is definitely not one on the tourist trail.  We camp and go for a walk to find the ruins which are sited on a dramatic gorge edge. The weather is not too good and we are met by a herdsman and his cattle trying to get past our truck and tents, well nobody got killed.
Another terrific thunderstorm overnight and then the problem of turning the truck. One and a half hours, two demolished walls, pushing and shoving and there you have it, pointing the other way.  Having re negotiated the track we set off for the border.
The Armenian guards still wear those very high fronted caps, a blast from the past.  We wait in the sun for our visas until they give in and we get through.
We are now looking for another bush camp when some villagers take our guide and Rogan off in a car. When they return we have found a camp in a glade with knee high grass and the clouds gather again. During the evening we are joined by Armenians with brandy so some of our drinking team entertain them.
More rain then sun in the morning finds us heading in to Yerevan the capital of Armenia. We are staying in a hostel in the middle of the city which turns out to be very nice and a welcome hot shower with laundry down the road. A lovely city and Julia and I sat outside eating a very good lunch. Tomorow a walking tour and then back to Georgia heading for Azerbaijan

Gori to Tibilisi

Having had a very unusual breakfast of pancakes and cakes we set off for Gori the birthplace of Uncle Joe Stalin. We arriveed and had a guided tour by a painted lady who spoke perfect English as though reading a script. There was no possibility of asking a question we did as we were told. That said, it was very interesting. We met up with Betsy who had briefly left us to attend a wedding in Canada! We had a nice evening bush camp near a church on a hill.
The following day we drove to another bush camp at Kazbegi next to a river. The drive was over the Caucases mountains just like the Alps complete with snow.  The roads arte nearly non existent, just a series of holes.  Having arrived we were approached by the police and warned of Woves!!  Having dug a cosy toilet we settled in for the night and drank from our on board bar ( it,s not all hell!!).
In the morning we hiked up a huge mountain to a church called Gorgeti Trinity, quite spectacular but very hot and Julia and I had to make steps in a snow field at one point.
We have now arrived in the capital of Georgia, Tibilisi.  A mad dash across town in taxis to the Kazakstan Embassy for visas.  The ride was hair raising to say the least!
Out for a group dinner tonight, Julia is at a Turkish bath.  Off to Armenia in two days for more bush camping.

Kutaisi or something like that

Bush camped last night by a river which was nice apart from the biggest thunderstorm I have ever seen which made camping interesting. We shared the area with wandering pigs, cattle and strange people including a Czech cyclist who has been on the road for 10 months and is heading for China.
Set off for Kutaisi and as we entered the town our guide ZIZI decided he would give directions to Rogan in this chaotic place by whispering behind him and pointing a vague finger. This resulted in us doing several tours of back streets where the cables dragged over our roof.  We found the 'hotel' down a back street that would do justice to war torn Afghanistan, but inside is quite nice. Very poor place and still obviously post Soviet. The Russians still occupy some of the country.
Bush camping tomorrtow en route to Tiblisi.

Continued

Sorry got cut ioff mid flow.
Having got the tent out a convoy of lorries arrived to dump stone. Lots of arm waving and pointing and they drove off having tried to level the area. Laura went for a walk and ended up staring at a Bear! I was cooking and we had a great chicken curry.
Next day off to the border with Georgia.Off the truck on the truck but no real problems. On the Georgian side we meet our guide ZaZa, a nice quiet guy. Batumi. Being regenerated around the poor, very post Soviet.  As we tried to unload our bags a boy beggar kept getting in our way but we got into our hotel which is fine, not sure where it fweatures in the star rating. For lunch Julia and I sat by the waterside and enjoyed Georgian food and wine. The group went out in the evening to a restaurant in a boat on land! There was live music and lots of wine. We all enjoyed ourselves, some more than others. A highluight was some of the locals dancing, they were really very good so our Scottish girls jumped up (Rowan and Di) and it turned into a competition. I think we won.
Off bush camping again today. Sorry for the errors in the text but my small machine is a mystery to me. Bye for now.

That was Turkey this is Georgia

Before we left Gorome we decided to walk in to town. After a few minutes the heavens opened and it poured down drenching us. A car stopped and three Turkish men told us to get in, so this was either a kidnap or friendlyness!! So, we got in and they drove us in to town. Turkish people are just genuinly nice. Having got in to town we went to a cafe where we met up with some of the others and drank Turkish tea while we dried out.
The next morning we set off East for a bush camp and on the way stopped for lunch in an out of the way town called Zara. As we stopped we were surrounded by children and locals who clearly thought we were hilarious. We moved on and found somewhere to stop next to a reservir surrounded by mountains, a great site.  Clearly no toilets here so people wandering off with small shovels.
Up early and off East again stopping for lunch in Tirebulu whose population also seemed never to have seen a weterner before. A cafe owner gave us all free tea. We drove on to our campsite near Trabzon. More a restaurant than a camp site but it was ok. While bbqing ourchicken in the dark a man came over and just gave us a large bottle of Georgian wine.
We left and drove to the monastery of Sumela, a three mile walk uphill to the monastery stuck to the side of a cliff, quite fantastic but very hot.
Popped into town where a grocer tried to charge me four pounds each for some melons, I declined and bought a bottle of wine.
Our next bush camp was very interesting as the mountains are so steep we struggled to find somewhere to stop. Eventually we backed up a track to a small area of dumped stonhaving cl

Gorome - Turkey

We had an early start from Istanbul, breakfast at 0600hrs and on the road by 0630. Turkey has suprised me so far as I expected a poor country like Romania and Bulgaria.  But far from it, this is a huge and prosperous country with magnificent buildings and construction on a massive scale.  The countryside is beautiful and endless.
We had a long day on the truck, a 12 hour drive!! we were all a bit tired at the end of it.  We have arrived in Gorome, a place I had never heard of.  Our campsite has spectacular views over an alien landscape.
Our first full day was an organised tour (tourists!!). We had a guide and a small coach and our first stop was one of the cave complexes that used to hold 5000 people.  The underground system is fantastic with living areas and work areas linked by small tunnels which I could only just squeeze through. Some of our larger members had an even tighter squeeze.  Health and safety does not exist. We then moved on to a number of photo opportunities at the amazing volcanic rock structures before lunch at an unusual pizza stop! My drink was a type of yoghurt which I think I may give a wide berth to in  future. More picture stops, a visit to a pottery and then out to dinner wwhere the meal was in a clay pt that you had to break the top off to eat. It was the best meal we have had in Turkey.
Got up at 0600 the next morning to see over 100 hot air balloons rise out of the valley, quite a spectacle.  Just off for a walk, hope you are all well and enjoying the bank holiday.

Istanbul Part 2

Followiong our visit to the Han  restaurant we all trooped of to smoke hubbly bubbly pipes on cushioned couches!!  I forgot to mention our trip to the Uzbekistan Embassy in the morning.  All went far too well in the begining. As we stood outside our Australian, Jodie, realised that she had her room mate Betsies Canadian passport by mistake.  She had to dash back in  a taxi to get hers but all was well in the end.  Today Julia, Betsie, Jeff and I went off the the Topkapi.  A huge complex with the most interesting being the Harem.  Following a very nice lunch, Julia and I went to the Blue Mosque where she had to cover up to get in.  A fantastic huge domed structure.  My sore feet appreciated having to walk around bare footed on the cartpet.
The afternoon was a boat trip on the Bosphorus. Having negotiated a price we were bundled into a mini bus and taken to a boat that clearly should have been condemned some years ago.  We then sailed off into a freezing wind and high swell for an hour and a half.  Great views but very cold.  When we got back we stumbled into the filming of the new James Bond film, how crazy is that?  Tomorow up and gone by 6.15 en-route to Goreme about a 12 hour drive.

Istanbul

We drove in to Istanbul which is huge and had arranged to meet someone from the hotel near to the train station. As usual we were drawing a lot of attention and as we pulled up there was a terrific bang as a three car accident happened next to us. The hotel person never arrived so we put on our rucksacks and marched off in a long line to our small hotel right in the middle of the city.  The place is as you would expect, quite mad.  There are endless places to eat and you are enticed in at every one you pass. We had arrived quite early in the afternoon so Julia and I went for a quick look to see where we were and found we were around the corner from the Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque.  We popped into some mausoleums and found just how fantastic these buildings are going to be.  That evening we wanted to eat and gave in to one of the many offers of great food.  A nice evening.
Day two we went off walking and went to the spice market, a huge under cover market of fantastic sights, sounds and smells.  Then to the Bosphorus to eat fish rolls cooked on bobbing boats and then passed ashore.  We visited the Cistern, which is an ancient underground water source built on massive pillars, very impressive. Having decided to buy a bum bag we headed for the 'Grand Bazaar'. Well, you have never seen anything like it.  An under cover  market on a scale beyond comprehension. Thousands of stalls and shops with people enticing you to buy their goods.  The only thing they do not appear to sell is the type of bag Julia wants!!  We met some of the others for dinner in the Ham restaurant, which had cushions on the floor.  Bit expensive for what you got so probably wont go back there.

Greece by the sea

Having left our beautiful campsite in Bulgaria we left early heading for Greece.  As usual we passed thousands of desolate looking blocks of Communist era flats.  It is clearly going to take vast sums of money and time to put all this right. The day got hotter and hotter and the windows have now started to open on the truck.  Not too much of a problem at the border, the non EU lot had to get out at customs and talk with the officials but no problems and we were soon away.  Having entered Greece we stopped on a minor track to have some lunch and within 15 mins a truck pulled up full of teenagers and a very nice lady who said she was teaching the group English and they had heard about our amazing vehicle.  We have now arrived at our seaside campsite at Androlopolous. After 10 mins we had put up tents and all run off to the beach side bar.  Looking good. Julia just wants me to mention the late night poker night she was involved in at the campsite when she took everyone to the cleaners.

Bliss in Bulgaria

Having recovered from the 4 hour walking tour of Prague we had another early start and drove all day through Slovakia without stopping before entering Rumania. It was pretty much as you would expect, very poor and very dirty with litter everywhere.  The cattle walking through piles of litter and dogs roaming about. Having said that, we stopped overnight at a remote wild spot called the Turda Gorge.  In the morning we all set out with one group climbing in a cave while Julia and I and some others walked up the gorge and to the top which was a mamoth task as it was very steep and very hot. The next day we sey off again and drove to Bucharest.  This is a city not yet found by tourists, the main reason being it is a dump! Perhaps a bit unkind but true.  We all met up in the evening and had dinner in a nice restaurant before getting a taxi back to the campsite. Yet another early start and as I was on breakfast duty I was up at 6.00am rolling up things and setting up for the other travellers.  We then set off again for the border with Bulgaria.  As usual just before the border we stopped at a service station and all piled in to spend the last of our Li, a strange plastic note currency.  We are now experts at service stations throughout Europe.  Having got in to Bulgaria we drove up into beautiful countryside to a campsite owned by brits.  Very nice, and they do a full English breakfast!!

Internet duffers in Prague

Well, that's a great way to spend 30 minutes.  Trying to work out how to see your blog in English.

The story so far:  Met up in London and boarded a coach with a bunch of strangers and drove to Dover where we boarded a ferry.  The weather at this point was cold and as it has turned out has stayed that way until Prague.  We camped our first night in Belgium and were given our various duties which at this stage meant Julia being in charge of the valuables in the on-board safe and me on taking the luggage off when we stop to camp and back on again when we leave.  I think she got the best deal.  We have been making early starts being on the road by 0800hrs having washed, dressed eaten breakfast, packed away tents and loaded the truck! I can tell you are impressed.
Our first proper stop was Koln.  We pitched camp and then walked in.  That took just over an hour brisk walking and we then wandered around the city doing the usual tourist things before meeting up with our group at a restaurant.  We had typical German food and beer before walking around like lost sheep trying to work out the tram system to get back.
From Koln we drove to Bamberg in the old East of Germany.  A typical German Medieval City.  Some of us decided to take a bus tour of the city which was fine however, the guide spoke at length in German and the English consisted of 'there is a Church over there'.
The following day we drove all day to Prague, stopping briefly for lunch at a service station where we rummaged around for change to use the loo.  Our campsite is two tram rides from the city so much map reading and pointing has taken place.  We have now completed our 4 hour walking tour and am feeling a bit weary.  I don,t know how long we can sit in this internet cafe before being asked to leave.
Meeting up with the group at a restaurant in the city at 7pm, yes, it is hell eating your way across Europe..

We will attempt to update in a few days.  The so called internet access at the campsites has not worked so far.

Time to Go!

This is it, the day we leave Devon and head off to London to join the other mad people heading off into the unknown.  Julia and I have managed to get 6 months worth of stuff into our rucksacks, we could easily have taken twice as much but we have had to be realistic.  The house is tidy and ready for our grown up children with their children to come and visit and 'look after' our place.  It seems everyone in the village knows we are going and want to know the details so a walk around involves a lot of explanations.  We have been wined and dined by our friends and so many offers of help that it just confirms how lucky we are to live in this community.  For those of you who read this and don't know, we live in the village of Ashprington, in the South hams of Devon.  If their is a Gods Country then this is it.
Today we catch a train from Totnes and head off to London for an overnight stay at the Double Trees Hotel at Victoria and catch a coach outside at 7.30am Sunday.  Our new group then heads off for Dover before catching up with our truck, Calypso, in Belgium.
I'm just off to turn off the water and unplug the TV, hope to catch up soon.

3 in to 2 won't go!!

With less than 6 weeks to go I have been putting my 'essential' items into my rucksack and, having now put some clothing in, it is quite obvious something will have to give as I am already struggling to do the zip up.  I suppose the problem is that we are going to both very hot and very cold places.  It also does not help that I seem to have enough medication and sprays etc to stock a field hospital.  That nice warm fleece may have to bite the dust and be replaced with one bought in Kyrgyzstan!  Julia is much more laid back as she has not attempted to pack yet, (her time will come).
The only hitch in the planning so far has been the saga of Azerbaijan gate.  I have now completed the form 4 times and had to send a further copy by email as No 4 got lost.  The Azerbaijan Embassy has decided to go electronic and has made a right hash of it.  I can only assume that the sudden doubling of the visa price is a result of them getting the Eurovision song contest, or am I just being a synic?
The facebook group has been great as we have been able to start talking to each other and it sounds like we have a really good group of different people.
Anyway, I am off to sit on my rucksack to make more room.  P.S, Did I mention my daughter gets married in less than 3 weeks? no pressure just a big white wedding here in the village and then off to Brixham for the do.  What we need is more planning to do.